Food

The Textures of Otak-Otak

by Wai Zi Ying (Yale-NUS College)

Otak otak is a grilled or steamed fish paste wrapped in banana leaves, and is a very popular snack in Singapore. What is less known is the rich variety of colours, smells and textures that go into making the paste. This essay deconstructs the otak otak to reveal the vibrant tapestry of ingredients and tools behind the fragrant dish.

The Textures of Otak Otak
The Textures of Otak Otak

A very amateur attempt at making steamed otak-otak. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.

A Peranakan food cart in Orchard Road serving

A Peranakan food cart in Orchard Road serving otak-otak in a burger. 1985, National Archives of Singapore.

The Textures of Otak Otak

The ingredients required to prepare otak-otak. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.

What's in the dish?

Otak-otak requires two main components:
1) Rempah, a spice paste that gives otak-otak its distinct orange colour: made using shallots, red chilli and lemongrass
2) Fish chunks

Fish curry powder, tamarind paste, and kaffir lime leaves are used to season the fish paste, and everything is held together by egg yolk and coconut milk

The Textures of Otak Otak

A closer shot of the lemongrass used for the rempah. April 2020, photo by author.

Lemongrass

Lemongrass is a thin, long herb that has a distinct citrus aroma. When mixed with shallots and chilli to make rempah, the subtle hint of spiciness from lemongrass adds a very pleasant flavour to the spice paste, lending the otak otak a refreshing tangy fragrance.

The Textures of Otak Otak

A closer shot of the fish curry powder and kaffir lime leaves. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.

Fish curry powder and kaffir lime leaves

Fish curry powder is used to enhance the spice and flavour of the fish paste. Kaffir lime leaves are highly aromatic leaves, and are a key ingredient in many Peranakan dishes. They have a spiced-citrus flavour which is a lot lighter and zestier than a bay leaf or curry leaf, which adds a refreshing kick to the otak-otak.

The Textures of Otak Otak

Pounding the rempah in the batu lesung. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.

Adding shallots into the <em>batu lesung</em> to make the <em>rempah</em>. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.
Adding shallots into the batu lesung to make the rempah. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.
Pounding the <em>rempah</em> in the <em>batu lesung</em>. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.
Pounding the rempah in the batu lesung. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.

Batu Lesung

The mortar and pestle are often used in the preparation of the spices and pastes needed in Peranakan cuisine. Notice the rough and heavy granite that makes up the 2-piece tool. The cool, sturdy weight of the batu lesung can be felt against the hands as the pestle crushes and pounds the lemongrass, shallots and red chilli to release their rich fragrances.

The Textures of Otak Otak

Chopping the batang tenggiri into smaller chunks. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.

Batang tenggiri

Batang tenggiri, or Spanish mackerel, is the main type of fish used to make otak otak. As the batang tenggiri is a very strong swimmer, its flesh tends to be meaty and firm. The fish is chopped up into small chunks and mixed in with the rempah, and after steaming, they provide an occasional spring to the otak otak’s otherwise smooth texture.

The Textures of Otak Otak

Wrapping the fish paste in banana leaves. April 2020, photo by Wai Zi Ying.

Banana Leaves

Banana leaves are glossy and flexible leaves that are widely used for cooking and serving in many cultures, especially in Peranakan cuisine. They are used to wrap the fish paste for steaming, infusing in the otak otak a subtle, sweet aroma that complements the fragrant spices of the rempah and kaffir lime leaves.

Wai Zi Ying (Yale-NUS College)

Zi Ying is a third year Environmental Studies major at Yale-NUS college. She is very interested in the environmental humanities, literature and filmmaking.

Established in 2011, through a partnership between Yale University and the National University of Singapore, Yale-NUS College is a leading liberal arts and sciences college in Asia, with a residential programme that integrates living and learning. Drawing on the resources and traditions of its founding universities, a Yale-NUS education promotes broad-based interdisciplinary learning across the natural sciences, social sciences and humanities complemented by depth of expertise in one’s major.





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